History of Earrings

Contributed by Sher Matsen

Earrings - I think of them as the finishing touch to your look. They complete your fashion statement. There are earrings for all occasions - the boardroom, work, casual outings, your wedding, a night on the town, or a day at the beach. They can bring out your softer feminine side, the sexy goddess, or present simple charm, sophistication and elegance.
From Elizabeth Taylor to Meg Ryan to Dave Navarro to Usher - today earrings are a fashion statement for both men and women. The first pair of earrings has been dated back to 2500 BC. Only the wealth and those of royal lines could afford expensive jewelry back then.
There are all types of earrings - chandelier earrings, dangle earrings, hoop earrings, stud earrings, button earrings, and droplet earrings to name just a few. Earrings come in all types of materials and metals. Gold, silver, gemstones, plastics, Bakelite, copper diamonds, paste, pearls, faux stones, or glass. The list goes on and on. What ever your desires there is a pair of earrings out there waiting for you.
The oldest earrings ever unearthed by archaeologists were discovered in Iraq in the royal graves and date to about 2,500 BC. Back to 3000 BC there were two types of earrings: the hoop, and the more elaborate pendant. From 1559 B.C. to 1085 B.C. in Egypt earplugs became very fashionable. These types of piercings and earrings are seen even on King Tutankhamen.
In the Dark Ages poverty prevailed and metal jewelry sharply declined although designs were preserved for later use. During the Roman Empire wealthy women used earrings to show off their rich status. By the 2nd century AD gemstones such as sapphires, emeralds, and aquamarines were used regularly.
During the Byzantine period, which ran from 330-1200 AD, earrings took a back burner to more elaborate body ornamentation. In the Middle Ages earrings become almost non-existent because of the elaborate hairstyles, and headdresses that were ever so popular.
During the 16th century in Italy high collars disappeared and hair was being worn up and away from the face, so earrings began to make a comeback. In other parts of the world such as England and France it would be another 100 years or so before the high collars disappeared. As time progressed the design of earrings became much more complex. Around 1660 the girandole earring made its appearance remaining very popular for the next couple of centuries. The girandole earrings were extremely large and heavy because of the metal content [gold or silver] and the amount of gems. Made of 3 pear shaped drops on a hook. The weight was known to cause elongated ear lobes.
In the latter part of the 18th century the pendeloque earrings became popular. They were longer than the girandole earrings but much lighter. They were the balance for the high hairdos and big wigs that were being worn.
During the early 1800, jewelers began to mount gemstones, on an open back claw setting. This allowed the light to pass through the gems enhancing their color and brilliance. By the 1850s, earrings had once again disappeared from the fashion scene. This was once again a result of changing hairstyles. The new styles that involved wearing the hair gathered in a knot at the back resulted in the ears being totally hidden. As well bonnets had arrived on the scene which also made wearing earrings rather difficult.
During the early 20th century screw backs were invented which meant women no longer had to pierce their ears. These became very popular. Some circles even began to believe piercing ones ears was rather barbaric.
After WWI shorter hairdos became very popular. Earrings were perfect for filling the space from short hair to shoulder and once again became a popular fashion statement.
During the 1920s art deco styles took hold, recognized by their straight or angled designs. Very long chandelier earrings were also quite popular during this time.
During the 1930s the clip on was invented. Because clip-ons held the earring more snuggly than screw backs they became the number one choice for many years to come. Pierced ears faded into the background.
During the 1950s earrings were light and aerodynamic. By the 1960s earrings had become fun and innovative. Texture and color was very important. Prior to the 1960s earrings were dedicated to either eveningwear or day wear with the eveningwear earrings being more elegant. During the 1960s this all changed when the distinction between what was acceptable for evening or day faded away.
By the 1970s we had entered an "everything goes" style to earrings and pierced ears had made a comeback. Women were buying earrings in large quantities for every occasion.
Today it's difficult to find someone who doesn't have pierced ears. Today men are as interested in earrings as women. Men often prefer studs or small hoops, they may wear one earring, two or more depending on the individual's tastes. Children now get their ears pierced often at a very young age, even sometimes as babies. Women may have anywhere from one set of holes to piercings right up the ear. The fashion of earrings has come a long way over the years and its here to stay! Whatever your style, there is certain to be a pair of earrings out there for you. Be sure to make your fashion statement!
© Sher Matsen. All Rights Reserved.
About the Author
Estate Jewelry International has been serving customers for over 20 years, providing estate jewely & costume jewelry for all occasions, as well as a wealth of information on jewelry, fashion, designers, and beauty. Please visit us at www.estatejewelryinternational.com.

The History of Pearls

by Fred Ward

Long known as the "Queen of Gems," pearls possess a history and allure far beyond what today's wearer may recognize. Throughout much of recorded history, a natural pearl necklace comprised of matched spheres was a treasure of almost incomparable value, in fact the most expensive jewelry in the world. Now we see pearls almost as accessories, relatively inexpensive decorations to accompany more costly gemstones.Before the creation of cultured pearls in the early 1900s, natural pearls were so rare and expensive that they were reserved almost exclusively for the noble and very rich. A jewelry item that today's working women might take for granted, a 16-inch strand of perhaps 50 pearls, often costs between $500 and $5,000. At the height of the Roman Empire, when pearl fever reached its peak, the historian Suetonius wrote that the Roman general Vitellius financed an entire military campaign by selling just one of his mother's pearl earrings.No one will ever know who were the earliest people to collect and wear pearls. George Frederick Kunz, whom I like to call America's first gemologist, in his 1908 masterpiece, The Book of the Pearl, states his belief that an ancient fish-eating tribe, perhaps along the coast of India, initially appreciated the shape and lustre of saltwater pearls, which they discovered while opening oysters for food. No matter the origin, a reverence for pearls spread throughout the world over the ensuing millennia. India's sacred books and epic tales abound with pearl references. One legend has the Hindu god Krishna discovering pearls when he plucks the first one from the sea and presents it to his daughter Pandaïa on her wedding day. China's long recorded history also provides ample evidence of the importance of pearls. In the Shu King, a 23rd-century B.C. book, the scribe sniffs that as tribute, a lesser king sent "strings of pearls not quite round." In Egypt, decorative mother-of-pearl was used at least as far back as 4200 B.C., but the use of pearls themselves seems to have been later, perhaps related to the Persian conquest in the fifth century B.C. Rome's pearl craze reached its zenith during the first century B.C. Roman women upholstered couches with pearls and sewed so many into their gowns that they actually walked on their pearl-encrusted hems. Caligula, having made his horse a consul, decorated it with a pearl necklace.
The Romans and Egyptians prized pearls above all other gems.
Pearls, in fact, played the pivotal role at the most celebrated banquet in literature. To convince Rome that Egypt possessed a heritage and wealth that put it above conquest, Cleopatra wagered Marc Antony she could give the most expensive dinner in history. The Roman reclined as the queen sat with an empty plate and a goblet of wine (or vinegar). She crushed one large pearl of a pair of earrings, dissolved it in the liquid, then drank it down. Astonished, Antony declined his dinner -- the matching pearl -- and admitted she had won. Pliny, the world's first gemologist, writes in his famous Natural History that the two pearls were worth an estimated 60 million sesterces, or 1,875,000 ounces of fine silver ($9,375,000 with silver at $5/ounce).The Arabs have shown the greatest love for pearls. The depth of their affection for pearls is enshrined in the Koran, especially within its description of Paradise, which says: "The stones are pearls and jacinths; the fruits of the trees are pearls and emeralds; and each person admitted to the delights of the celestial kingdom is provided with a tent of pearls, jacinths, and emeralds; is crowned with pearls of incomparable lustre, and is attended by beautiful maidens resembling hidden pearls."

Fred Ward is a gemologist and author of the book Pearls (Gem Book Publishers, Bethesda, Maryland, 1998), from which this article was adapted.